From the fabric to the dyes, every garment contains numerous chemicals. Chemistry is highly prominent in fashion, primarily in material production, but is often overlooked. However, many chemicals in our clothing are harmful to humans. In this article, we explore the application of chemistry in clothing and the potential side effects of the chemicals.
The application of chemistry in clothing
Chemicals are used in fabric production when making yarns for cloth. Some natural materials include cotton or wool, and synthetic materials include polyester or nylon. Synthetic materials, as they are partly plastic, can be elastic and more durable than natural fibers but can cause environmental pollution.
Once the cloth is made, dyes are added. Inorganic sources include synthetic compounds or chemicals, including hydrochloric acid and soda ash, which can cause skin irritation (and/or dermatitis). They can be added via a direct application, where dyes have a higher affinity* for cellulosic fibers (e.g., viscose) and are more easily absorbed (such as by cotton). They require simple processing and are more cost-effective in comparison to indirect applications.
*affinity: the degree to which a substance combines with another.
Indirect application is when dyes are applied after the fabric has been processed - similar to if we were to get some dye from the store and dye some plain colored fabrics. They have a lower affinity and thus require fabrics to undergo a pretreatment with a mordant. A mordant combines with a dye or stain to fix it to a material, the most common being potassium aluminum sulfate.
Although relatively non-toxic, potassium aluminum sulfate can cause irritation, burns, and respiratory problems. If inhaled, it may cause headaches, nausea, and respiratory irritations.
Specific chemicals in the textile industry
Returning to the application of chemicals in the fabric production process, many chemicals are used to adapt the fabrics better for daily use. Artificial/synthetic fabrics are often less susceptible to mold, and natural fibers are more vulnerable to biodeterioration. Microorganisms can grow and flourish on these materials, whereas plant fibers are very susceptible to being attacked by cellulolytic (cellulose-digesting) fungi.
The typical growth form of these “mold” fungi is recognized as mildew, which may discolor and spoil the fabric with stains (not to be confused with sweat stains; those yellow stains are caused by urea). To prevent this, biocides are added to ensure that clothes don’t become mildewy during long transport periods. Biocides often prevent the creasing of fabrics and are occasionally used in dress shirts.
Another chemical used is dimethyl fumarate, which prevents mold. It is also a medication that decreases the number of multiple sclerosis relapses (weakness in arms or legs, blurred vision, etc.). However, this medication has side effects, even when applied to textiles. Some can include hives/itching, swelling of the face, lips, or tongue, and many, many more.
But I don’t experience any side effects of the chemicals!
Some chemicals often mimic hormones and take longer to interfere with our bodies. Because we shower frequently (I hope you do), these chemicals are often washed away before they can directly affect us. However, those with sensitive skin will be more susceptible to skin rashes and itchiness from certain fabrics.
Therefore, please remember to shower frequently!
Works Cited
Affinity Chemical. (2019). Alum Environmental and Toxicological Information. [online] Available at: https://www.affinitychemical.com/alum-environmental-and-toxicological-information/#:~:text=Aluminum%20sulfate%20is%20fairly%20non.
byjus.com. (n.d.). Explain the types of dyes based on their method of application. [online] Available at: https://byjus.com/question-answer/explain-the-types-of-dyes-based-on-their-method-of-application/#:~:text=Mordant%20dyes%20or%20Indirect%20dyes [Accessed 25 Jan. 2024].
chemicalsinourlife.echa.europa.eu. (n.d.). Clothes and textiles - Chemicals In Our Life - ECHA. [online] Available at: https://chemicalsinourlife.echa.europa.eu/clothes-and-textiles#:~:text=You%20can%20find%20a%20large [Accessed 25 Jan. 2024].
Cleveland Clinic. (n.d.). Dimethyl Fumarate: Uses & Side Effects. [online] Available at: https://my.clevelandclinic.org/health/drugs/18294-dimethyl-fumarate-oral-delayed-release-capsules#:~:text=Dimethyl%20fumarate%20is%20a%20medication [Accessed 25 Jan. 2024].
dyepigments.net Admin (2023). What are Direct Dyes | Properties & Uses. [online] Dyes and Pigments. Available at: https://www.dyespigments.net/blog/what-are-direct-dyes-properties-uses/#:~:text=Affinity%3A%20Direct%20dyes%20have%20a.
ECHEMI, E.T. (2022). What Is The Application Of Chemistry In Clothing? [online] echemi.com. Available at: https://www.echemi.com/cms/532515.html#:~:text=They%20are%20used%20to%20create,such%20as%20perfume%20or%20deodorant..
www.fibre2fashion.com (n.d.). Biocides in Textile. [online] www.fibre2fashion.com. Available at: https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/27/biocides-in-textile.
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